Our trip to the Cotswolds | UK Breaks
/This is Part 1 of our Cotswolds + Peak District trip. Part 2, Peak District coming later this week :)
Let’s rewind back to December 2020 before I tell you about our Cotswolds stay (and hopefully inspire you to go there/plan your trip!)
I’m sure you’ll remember, we were in the thick of disappointment...
The country went into further lockdowns, Christmas was cancelled, and there was a rush to the post office to get Christmas presents sent to family members we could no longer pop in to see :(
All for good reason of course, but still, it was one of the toughest winters psychologically for so many, on so many different levels.
Neil’s Mum & Dad bought me something so meaningful that Christmas though, that changed my mood entirely and gave me something to look forward to come brighter days…
Hitting pause on our adventures
If you’re an OG blog reader you’ll know that Neil and I went on the trip of a lifetime to Peru & Bolivia long before the ‘C’ word, back in September 2019.
6 months after that trip I wrote about how it awakened the longing to explore more of the world together and just before the virus broke out in the UK, we had dreams to travel a whole lot more. Costa Rica, New Zealand, South East Asia…
I have no doubt we’ll get to go to these places but it’s been a bit of a mental “can we/can’t we” tug of war.
Knowing that long haul travel isn’t likely to happen comfortably any time soon, Neil’s Mum & Dad bought me (and Neil of course) wait for it… a Llama trekking experience in the UK 😂
When you can’t go to Peru, let Peru come to you!
It was exactly what I needed to remind me that the world would get back to (relative) normality soon and it was a taste of our Peru experience while giving me something to look forward to through winter.
I absolutely adore Llamas. You just CAN’T look at a llama and not smile, can you? So I knew this was going to be such a laugh and I couldn’t wait to be able to trek with our own!!
Why we chose the Cotswolds for our first foray
burford
the slaughters
So that leads me back to why we chose the Cotswolds…. Restrictions started loosening with the successful rollout of the vaccine in the UK and we started making loose plans to go and do our Llama trekking adventure in a wee village called Weedon Lois near Towcester in Northamptonshire.
Rather than just drive straight there and back again, we decided to make the Llama trek a half way point for us to explore areas to the North of us in the UK and make a long holiday of it.
We’re based down here in Sussex so any journey north has to be worth the traffic on the M25 and the M1!
Initially our plans were to drive up for the trek, then on to visit the Peak District (which I’ll tell you more about in the next post) but Neil said why not make the most of travelling while the weather is good and restrictions were loosening so we went off to the Cotswolds first!
Our Cotswolds itinerary – Day 1
The Cotswolds are an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty that I’ve long wanted to visit. I love everything about farmhouse/country design and get huge colour and interior inspiration from country villages and being outdoors. Neil is a photographer and has such a natural desire to photograph cute/quirky villages and picturesque natural environments too, so really, the Cotswolds have always been a must visit for us we’ve just never previously got around to booking.
The Airbnb we booked was in Souldern, closer to the Llama trekking than the Cotswolds, which didn’t make it ideal for exploring the hotspots (although it was in such a quaint, sleepy village!) so we started our itinerary before checking in. We had a classic car lunch and just bimbled between villages on Day 1.
By the way, when you only have a few days planned for exploring a fairly large area, I tend to google things like “48 hours in the cotswolds” for other people’s itineraries and pinch the best bits. Check out Lucy’s from On The Luce’s post, Rebecca from Roses & Rolltops’ posts, and Solo Sophie’s 24 hour itinerary.
Burford
Burford
The first place we stopped was this bustling town lined with honey-coloured limestone houses. The high street sweeps down from a hill towards the River Windrush. We pootled in and out of the antique shops, I fell in love with everything from At Home With The Rudds interiors shop, and walked down by the river to spot the ducks, swans and their signets.
Bibury
arlington row, bibury
We drove on to Bibury which is a teeny tiny village that William Morris himself called “The most beautiful village in England”. Based on the River Coln (you can walk right down and dip your feet into the ice cold water if it’s a hot day like we had) it’s most famous for Arlington Row. A row of higgledy-piggledy houses built in the local honey-coloured limestone which is said to be the most photographed place in Britain! It features on the inside of UK passports.
bibury
We did a wee lap of the river to stretch our legs and as we meandered, Neil taking photos, I was telling him about how there’s a man who lives nearby who struggles to park his BRIGHT YELLOW car. It’s often captured in the Arlington Row photos and has become as famous as the houses now. We didn’t see it while we were there but it gave us a giggle!
Bourton-on-the-water
bourton-on-the-water
This village was described as “the Venice of the Cotswolds” which was clear to see why when we arrived. It sits on the most idyllic spot with pedestrian bridges over the River Windrush. The water is crystal clear and the banks were filled with families having picnics while their kids played in the shallow water.
Neil and I admired their sophistication after having our tin-foil wrapped sarnies with grand views of the M25… then went for a pint at The Duke of Wellington.
Word of warning, we visited Bourton on a weekday and it was very busy. Parking was a struggle but we got lucky. We spoke to a guy in Upper Slaughter 2 days later (a Saturday) who said he had to leave it was so full of tourists. The nearby villages – The Slaughters – are quieter and perfect for ambling without so many people.
Then we checked in at Souldern
After a long day on the road we checked in at our Airbnb a good 50min drive from Bourton (so as I said, not the most ideal location for the Cotswolds but perfect for us needing to get to the Llama trek early on the Sunday). We booked ahead for dinner in the garden at The Fox Inn opposite the Air Bnb, and had some DELISH Sea Bass washed down with a pint of Guinness each.
Our Air BNB
we stayed in the annexe, this is the main building – so beautiful!
The minute we check in anywhere, I just want to put our stuff away and make the place cosy while Neil itches to go exploring! It’s a given when you’re with Neil, you could be in a bustling city and he’ll find the most bug-infested, stinging nettle walkway to take me down. He’s such an adventurer at heart but usually ends up me moaning about something! 😂
Somewhere in souldern!
Despite being attacked by the midges he found us the most belter of a sunset location… I always forgive him!
Our Cotswolds itinerary – Day 2
We woke up a bit bleary-eyed but eager to make the most of the day. Breakfast wasn’t included with our Airbnb so we drove out to Croughton, a nearby village for brekkie.
Croughton Tea Rooms
We started the day without much of a plan (rookie error) aside from having what turned out to be one of the BEST full english breakfasts we’ve had in Croughton Tea Rooms which was such a charming village hall turned cafe.
What is it about Coronavirus and the lack of music in places now though? There’s definitely a bit of an awkward vibe going on when you step into places anyway, but it’s like people have stopped playing the radio/music to add to that air of awkwardness 😂
When we got there we chatted/whispered about what we wanted to do with the day and seeing as we’d spent a LONG day on the road yesterday, we didn’t fancy the 2 hour round trip back into the Cotswolds (even though we had a lot more to explore there – skip to Day 3!).
Stowe, National Trust
stowe, national trust
We love to make the most of our National Trust membership when we go away, and we spotted Stowe not far from us.
This place was BEAUTIFUL. It reminded me of Sheffield Park / Nymans with its gardens on a grand scale and various buildings to find on a map. We commented on how cool it would be to have a festival there – the sort of place with lots of interesting areas to see and sit.
We took a long walk around the gardens admiring the many lakes. It wasn’t all Jane Eyre mind you, Neil got hissed at by the Canadian Geese, my hay fever was 10/10 uncontrollable and we spotted a grass snake in the lake (cue the screams from me as Neil leapt into action to get close and photograph – I ran away!!)
It was a gorgeous place though. Next time, we’ll bring a picnic blanket, a packed lunch, hay fever relief and avoid the long grass.
Village walk – Souldern to Aynho (via the Oxford Canal)
neil admiring the oxford canal
rosie & jim territories
That evening we didn’t want to eat at The Fox Inn twice in a row and the next closest pub for dinner was recommended to us by our hosts – the Great Western Arms in Aynho.
We pre-booked before our trip as this place is popular and it certainly didn’t disappoint!
It’s a 10 min drive away but as it was a stunning evening we walked via the quietest country road through Souldern, down and along the Oxford Canal. Idyllic.
We shared a Prawn Cocktail to start, both had Wagyu burgers for mains, and washed it all down with local Hooky ciders as birds (yes, birds) flew around us. It had an outdoor aviary-style setup. I wish I knew which birds they were, they looked like dark coloured canaries!
10/10 for the food and service. I was SO grateful to our host for recommending it to us and getting a table.
When we got back from the Great Western Arms that evening, I planned our 3rd and last day from start to finish. I kept the day a surprise from Neil and tried to keep driving to a minimum so that we could be outside the car enjoying the amazing weather for most of it!
Our Cotswolds itinerary – Day 3
Broadway (for Breakfast + a mooch)
We woke up early, the Hooky ciders were good to us from the night before and we were ready for a day of exploring the Cotswolds. I packed a picnic and we set the sat nav to take us to Broadway for breakfast.
A few Christmasses ago, Neil spent a Wintery afternoon in Broadway with his family and I got SO jealous. He was Whatsapping me pics of the houses with old wooden doors, thatched roofs and luxurious wreaths.
From that day on, I always wanted to visit no matter what the season.
We stopped in at the Broadway Deli and got some coffee and breakfast baps to take away then found a bench on the village green to eat and people spot!
After that we explored some of the independent shops. I picked up some olive and black candles at At Home With The Rudds, we bought some sweets for the car from Hamiltons and a little teddy for our nephew (due in Oct) from Rikki Tikki.
Broadway Tower
Back in the car and air con on full blast, we drove up to the Broadway Tower. If we’re honest, it was a bit of a let down. Do you ever rock up somewhere, see that you have to pay for parking just to stop in for the view and it really puts you off bothering when you’re only planning to spend 15 mins having some fresh air? I bet it’s a lovely day out or spot to fly a kite, but we just drove on. I had a lot to squeeze into our day!
Snowshill, National Trust
snowshill manor, national trust
Now I’d read about Snowshill being the PERFECT spot for lavender! Stay with me here…
We’ve just had our driveway done and I’m looking for border plants so spotted the Snowshill Lavender Farm when I was planning and thought it would be the ideal place to stop in and learn about the different types, as well as get some stunning pics of the lavender fields in all their glory.
It wasn’t to be! The farm opens to visitors between the 16th June – 5th August and we were a week too early! Bummer. BUT we did have time to visit the Snowshill Manor & Garden which was idyllic.
Daylesford
DAYLESFORD ORGANIC
daylesford organic
We were getting a bit peckish now and Daylesford Organic was calling. Daylesford is a huge estate nestled on the Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire border. Privately owned but open to the public to explore their farmland and get an understanding of where their food is organically reared/grown.
There are some picturesque walks around the estate so we parked up, strolled through the fields towards Kingham and found a lunch spot to have a picnic in one of the fields.
daylesford organic
daylesford organic (walk to kingham)
The weather was seriously heating up by this point so we went back to Daylesford for a look around their food, interiors and garden stores and to find an organic juice or ice cream to cool us down.
It was damn expensive and very busy but well worth the visit as it gave me a lot of interior design inspiration. From the products they sell, to the build of their actual barns equipped with ship lap cladding, Cotswold stone and outdoor fire pits. It was very design-led.
daylesford organic
daylesford organic
We grabbed the nicest vegan ice creams we’ve ever tasted and found a shady tree to sit under to watch the nigh-on royalty clientele drive in and out. Daylesford is known for being a celebrity hangout! I bet Kate Middleton’s been a few times with the kids…
daylesford organic
daylesford organic
Before we left we bought some Daylesford Rosemary & Thyme Ham (a cooool £7!) and a baguette for tomorrow’s Llama trek!
Upper Slaughter & Lower Slaughter (aka The Slaughters)
THE SLAUGHTERS
THE SLAUGHTERS
That afternoon we spent it in the far quieter villages of The Slaughters. It was my favourite hours spent of our entire trip even though we didn’t take pics and just spent the afternoon hand in hand walking through the Ford (…Jesus Christ it was ICE COLD). We dreamt about one day owning a Cotswold cottage to escape to and reflected on how fortunate we are to be working together with Fifi McGee as well as ways we could potentially expand our life and business. After a long, miserable winter, it felt SO refreshing to be exploring again in the Summer sun.
The Llama Trek! – Day 4
The day had arrived! Our last few hours near the Cotswolds as we checked out of our AirBnB. The plan was to make our way to the Catanger Llamas Farm to start our Llama Trek then drive on to Castleton in the Peak District for a further week long holiday (which I’ll share in the next post. Wow it was a memorable place).
We rocked up, got our walking boots on and met The Mighty Quinn. The cutest lil llama who was under our watch for the day.
I’ll let the pics do the talking – we had so much fun as the team at the farm taught us how to handle the Llamas, and we really got to know Quinn’s personality! Turns out llamas are similar to sheep in that they are huge softies! Way more scared of things than confrontational. He kept nudging my shoulder and wiping his nose on my backpack throughout the walk which was the cutest thing.
They’re super easy to handle. We were told to be bossy as they need to know you’re in control to form a bond with you. He was so well behaved! The only mishap we had was when he had to pee and held up the whole group for about 15 mins. When you need to go, you need to go!!
Conclusion – The Peak District calls…
Looking out to mam tor from kinder, peak district
Our break away in the Cotswolds really lifted our spirits. If you’re anything like Neil and I, in love with the outdoors, passionate about design, and curious about UK villages with all their charm and history, the Cotswolds needs to be on your travel list if you haven’t been – or go there again if you have!
The modern farmhouse and country ‘look’ is most at home in the honey limestone cottages that line every turn in the road, but the Peak District, the Peak District was something else. I can’t wait to write about the next part of our travels in the next few days.
There are SO many things we wanted to do but didn’t have time for, so we’ll certainly be back for:
Country walks
The Lavender Farm (when it’s open!)
The Burford Model Village (it’s meant to be the best in the country)
The Burford Garden Center (heard lots of great reviews)
Blenheim
Bath
Castle Combe
Stow-on-the-wold (we drove through, it looked lovely!)
…and so many more little villages yet to explore!
Hope you’ve enjoyed reading about our trip and I hope it inspires your trip if you’re planning a stay in the Cotswolds soon.
Thanks for reading! Peak District guide coming :)
Fi (& Neil)
